East Coast Gear Supply
5015c Wake Forest Hwy
Durham
,
NC
27703
P:
919-672-2705
chase@eastcoastgearsupply.com
Tech FAQ's - Ask Chase
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Below are some of our customer submitted questions and Chase's answers:
Contents
Dana 60/61Tech
Dana 60 axle Shaft lengths
Front:
Ford (78-79) Shaft Lengths- 18.66"(Short)- 34.56"(Long)- 11.40"(Outers)
Ford (83-91) Shaft Lengths- 15.98"(Short)- 36.86"(Long)- 11.40"(Outers)
Ford Unit Bearing Shaft Lenths - 9.39"(Outers)
Chevy/GM Shaft Lengths- 17.67"(Short)- 35.07(Long)- 12.00"(Outers)
Dodge (79-93) Shaft Lengths- 15.98"(Short)- 35.10(Long)- 12.00"(Outers)
Ford (78-79) Shaft Lengths- 18.66"(Short)- 34.56"(Long)- 11.40"(Outers)
Ford (83-91) Shaft Lengths- 15.98"(Short)- 36.86"(Long)- 11.40"(Outers)
Ford Unit Bearing Shaft Lenths - 9.39"(Outers)
Chevy/GM Shaft Lengths- 17.67"(Short)- 35.07(Long)- 12.00"(Outers)
Dodge (79-93) Shaft Lengths- 15.98"(Short)- 35.10(Long)- 12.00"(Outers)
Dana 61 Tech- Can it be Geared, what are the advantages
Tech:
Most of the rears are the big spindles and can run 35 spline shafts without being bored, not all check them to be sure before getting to involved! Most of the 61's we have seen come with 3.07 gears, in order to run the 3.07 gears and fit the monster pinion head in there dana changed the offset of the pinion by changing the housing not the carrier. Dana 61's did however come w/ 3.55, 3.73 and 4.10 gears. The best advatage to these, they are cheap b/c the Q of whether or not they can be geared is a bit mystical. And the good news is they can be regeared!
Gearing:
This is how you get one to work. There was a a dana 60 spacer made by Reider that allowed you to run the lower ratio gear ie 4.56 and up. I believe this spacer was 5/8 thick. It required the 4.56 and up dana 60 carrier and the ring gear spacer to get the offset needed. This said spacer seems to be just a legend now and has been discontinued. However their still is the Mr. gasket dana 60 spacer (5/16 thickness) that just about every drivetrain company sells. This spacer is designed to allow you to run the 4.56 and up gears on a 4.10 and down carrier for a regular 60. This spacer does come into play but need not be confused w/ the legendary Rieder spacer, they are of different thickness.
Alas there is a dana/spicer Dana 61- 3.33 and up carrier part# 706400x. This carrier is 2 3/4 tall. Where as the dana 60 4.56 and up carrier part# 706041x is 2 7/16 tall. So what combination do you need to run which gear ratio? If you have a dana 61 that has 3.07 gears in it and you want to run 3.33-4.30 gears, you will need to run the dana 61 3.33 and up carrier part# 706400x or the dana 60 4.56 and up carrier with a 5/16 ring gear spacer. This is popular for people who are trying to regear a 3.07 dodge cummins and the like front 61 that has a non overdrive auto, If you switch to a manual or to an oerdrive auto transmission, you will likely want some lower gearing that is how you get it.
If you have a dana 61 with 3.33 or higher gear ratio all you need is a 5/16 ring gear spacer to run 4.56's and up.
If you have a dana 61 with 3.07 gears and you want to go to 4.56 or numerically higher gear ratio you will need to purchase a dana 61 3.33 and up carrier part# 706400x and a 5/16 ring gear spacer to achieve the desired offset. Or have a 5/8 ring gear spacer custom machined. This is popular for the guys trying to score a cheap front or rear 60's and gear it for offroad use.
Most of the rears are the big spindles and can run 35 spline shafts without being bored, not all check them to be sure before getting to involved! Most of the 61's we have seen come with 3.07 gears, in order to run the 3.07 gears and fit the monster pinion head in there dana changed the offset of the pinion by changing the housing not the carrier. Dana 61's did however come w/ 3.55, 3.73 and 4.10 gears. The best advatage to these, they are cheap b/c the Q of whether or not they can be geared is a bit mystical. And the good news is they can be regeared!
Gearing:
This is how you get one to work. There was a a dana 60 spacer made by Reider that allowed you to run the lower ratio gear ie 4.56 and up. I believe this spacer was 5/8 thick. It required the 4.56 and up dana 60 carrier and the ring gear spacer to get the offset needed. This said spacer seems to be just a legend now and has been discontinued. However their still is the Mr. gasket dana 60 spacer (5/16 thickness) that just about every drivetrain company sells. This spacer is designed to allow you to run the 4.56 and up gears on a 4.10 and down carrier for a regular 60. This spacer does come into play but need not be confused w/ the legendary Rieder spacer, they are of different thickness.
Alas there is a dana/spicer Dana 61- 3.33 and up carrier part# 706400x. This carrier is 2 3/4 tall. Where as the dana 60 4.56 and up carrier part# 706041x is 2 7/16 tall. So what combination do you need to run which gear ratio? If you have a dana 61 that has 3.07 gears in it and you want to run 3.33-4.30 gears, you will need to run the dana 61 3.33 and up carrier part# 706400x or the dana 60 4.56 and up carrier with a 5/16 ring gear spacer. This is popular for people who are trying to regear a 3.07 dodge cummins and the like front 61 that has a non overdrive auto, If you switch to a manual or to an oerdrive auto transmission, you will likely want some lower gearing that is how you get it.
If you have a dana 61 with 3.33 or higher gear ratio all you need is a 5/16 ring gear spacer to run 4.56's and up.
If you have a dana 61 with 3.07 gears and you want to go to 4.56 or numerically higher gear ratio you will need to purchase a dana 61 3.33 and up carrier part# 706400x and a 5/16 ring gear spacer to achieve the desired offset. Or have a 5/8 ring gear spacer custom machined. This is popular for the guys trying to score a cheap front or rear 60's and gear it for offroad use.
Thick Gears, Carrier changes
No thick cut gears are available for the Dana 60 regular rotation axle ie rear dana 60 axle.
There are however thick cut and thin cut gears available for the high pinion reverse rotaion 60's. In order to run 4.56 gears or numerically higher a ring gear spacer or a carrier change to a 4.56 and up carrier is required for a regular rotation 60.
There are however thick cut and thin cut gears available for the high pinion reverse rotaion 60's. In order to run 4.56 gears or numerically higher a ring gear spacer or a carrier change to a 4.56 and up carrier is required for a regular rotation 60.
Lockers
Ausie Locker or Lockright
We get this alot, we only sell lockrights. Here is why. They are made in the USA, they are an East Coast based company. There warranty program is top notch and fast. We see no difference in the Aussie or the lockright on or offroad. When we get a chance well post a picture of the 2 side by side they are almost identical. The lockright uses a 2 spring design at each pressure point, where the aussie use one. Detroit easy lockers also use the one spring design and we have actually disinstalled an easy locker minutes after the customer took the truck do to the poor road manners. We do no sell these either based on Detroits poor customer service and warranties, poor replacement part service and the issues we have had with them.
What Locker do I want- Locker Tech
We find this Q coming up alot so here is what we have learned from our own expierence and what customers have told us. Remember you get what you pay for and each locker has its own advantages and disadvatages we will try to list all the advatages and disagvatages of each. Also this should be stated: before getting into locker choices if you daily drive your truck any locker that is not selectable will diminish on road driving charecteristics. If you have a newer vehicle that you drive every day and expect to use your 4wheel drive in the snow and ice on the road, consider a selectable locker as the only way to go. Full non selectable lockers can be dangerous in the snow and ice. Both tires turn at the same speed which results in the vehicle wanting to go straight even when you have the wheels turned. Also in a icy conditions with both wheels spinning at the same rate it causes the vehicle to slide and spin that much faster. For snow and ice using a limited slip or selectable locker is a much better option. So onto the adv/disadv.
Lockright:
Advantages: Cheap, easy to install for backyard mechanic (in theory we will get into this in detial in the disadvantages) gives full traction when you need it, yet still allows you the ability to turn on the trail as it will unlock when you need it. We really think this is a good option in a front 60 for trail use. The Dana 60 carriers are very strong and can handle the load of harcore use. Lockrights come with a 2 year warranty and Richmond is very good about getting these warrantied. Pins can break and the springs do wear out but they are easily replaceable and cheap to do so. For the price lockrights are are a great product they offer full cheap traction but will also unlock to aid in steering. They are also made in the USA. Disadvatages:
The lockright relies on the strength of the carrier a weak carrier will literally rip in half, if your already overloading your current set-up with big tires and high horsepower, the carriers can fail. Ford 8.8 cariers and ten bolt cariers are good examples where we have seen this happen. Lockrights have poor street manners not terrible and each person has there own limits of acceptability, we are biulding trucks to do awesome things offroad so sacrifing ride quality on the road is a fact of life. We do not recomend Lockrights in any trucks that are used for towing. Reason: a lockright unloads when of the gas and then relocks when you get back on the gas this tranfer translates to a slight to heavy pull to one side. The magnitude of this pull is really determined by suspension and wheel base. With a very loose suspension and short wheelbase this pull is very noticeable. And frankly sometimes dangerous if one is not accustomed to driving with one. With a tight supension and long wheelbase it may be unnoticable. As far as installation goes. Some vehicles require the ring gear ot be removed from the carrier in order to drop the crosshaft out. On vehicles with side adjusters 14 bolt, chrysler rearends, and toyota 3rds. The backlash will need to be reset to the factory specifications. In order to do so a dial indictor is required. For toyotas the ring gear needs to be reomoved to install the lockright and the backlash will need to be reset. In this case it is trully easier to put a full carrier locker in it. Detroit:
Advantages:
Detroit lockers are tried and true, and they are extremely strong. They offer you full traction and come with a 1 year manufacturer warranty. They also unlock when turning allowing you turning abiltiy on road and offroad. These lockers have biult a great reputation b/c they are so tough. This is a true upgrade for a weak case. If your carrier is the weak link in your axle after adding a detroit it won't be. Disadvantages:
Much like a lockright detroits have the same poor street manners, depending on application they can be very noisy when they unload, usually in a parking lot or when doing tight turning maneuvers. They will load and unload on the street, when you are on and off the gas. They are however usually less noticable then lockrights and suspension and wheel base play a large roll in the severity of the effect. The biggest downsize to the detroit is if you break a shaft 90% of the time the clutch plate on the side of the broken shaft usually breaks from the recoil. This leaves you with a broken shaft and a broken locker. The locker can be repaired but these pieces are very expensive in relation to the cost of the locker, they are not proportional. A clutch plate usually is in the $160-$200 range. Another note is detroits cutomer service is sub par. Their warranties are usually very slow and parts can be very hard to come by, if you need a part you will need a very motivated vendor to get it for you. If you break a case on a detroit, not real likely, but possible, just the case portion will cost you close to what a new locker will cost. Again detroits have a great reputation for being strong b/c they are but if your treading on weak axle shafts think about upgrading your shafts with the locker or you might be in very bad position ( broken locker+ broken shaft). These lockers are not highly recomended for tow rigs or vehicles driving in snow/ice road conditions. Aburn ECTED:
Just a blurb here since we do not have a whole lot of expierence with these. Here is what we know: They are a great idea, and when I say great I mean great. Having a full time limited slip that transforms to full locker with a flick of a switch is an awesome idea. Auburn makes a great limited slip and makes some fantastic prodcuts, their warranty programs are top notch and they typically have great customer service. The problems we have heard is when the locker portion of the differential is engaged it slides the side gear over towards center this takes away form the spline engagement of the axle shaft to side gear and stripped shafts is the result (This may be hersay). They are priced right but there true worthiness is still in question with us. Don't count auburn out though we think they will correct this problem and manufaturer a better differential. They are agian a great company that manufacturers awesome prodcuts right here in the USA. OX Locker:
Advantages:
They are one of the toughest lockers ever biult and are a 100% forged differential. The mechanical linkage with the cable is simple and effective. You can engage and disengage when you need to0, making them useful on road and offrad. Go to the track or offroad, pull cable for full traction. Drive home push it in for an open diff. A properly routed cable that is maintained(oiled much like a motorcycle throttle cable) can give you many years or quality service. Disadvatages:
The cable can be problematic and they do require maintence and or replacement. A properly routed cable is essential it needs a fairly striaght shot, and can absouletly not be routed near any heat source. The cable sheath will act like heat shrink if routed to close to the exhuast and the cable will seaze in the sheath. There expense is a disadvantage but this comes form it bieng a very well biult differential. ARB:
Advantages: We are not going to hide the fact that we think this is the best locker on the market of course it is also one of the most expensive. It is the fastest locking and unlocking differential on the market. If you are offroad and need to make a tight turn flick it off make your turn and flick it back on. They are extemely strong as strong as any differential on the market if not the strongest. We have never seen one break. If your case is the weak link in your axle not anymore. If you have a newer vehicle that you drive everyday, installing the ARB will not impair its road qualities at all, just leave it off. In snow/ice condtions on the road an open diff is the safest way to travel, the ARB allows you to have that open diff. If you need to pull someone out of the ditch lock it in. If anything does go wrong with your locker or the accesories, replacement parts are easy to get and relatively cheap. ARB's customer service and warranty programs are awesome (2 year warranty). If you buy a ARB compressor with the locker, btwn the two purchases you have everything you need to actuate the locker and they are very easy to install the compressor and wire it. Just 3 wires are required. The electrical harness is prebiult for you to run the compressor switch and two locker switches so you can easily add another locker later if you so choose. ARB's come with vehicle specific instruction that are easy to read and very explicit. If a quality differential biulder can read and follow directions with attention to detail then installing the locker is relatively easy. If money is not a factor ARB is the only option for strength, relaibilty and safety. There is no downsize to installing an ARB if installed properly. Disadvantages:
The ARB needs to be installed by a quality profesional with expierence installing diffs, a do it yourselfer can install and we will answer tech questions but realize this is not a slap it in and go locker. If an ARB is installed properly it will outlast your truck problem free. The airlines need to be routed as to not get caught by rocks, supension travel, ect. The air lines also need to be protected from chafing and direct heat sources. There expense is also a downside, we know about budgets, but usually doing it right the first time saves money in the long run.
Advantages: Cheap, easy to install for backyard mechanic (in theory we will get into this in detial in the disadvantages) gives full traction when you need it, yet still allows you the ability to turn on the trail as it will unlock when you need it. We really think this is a good option in a front 60 for trail use. The Dana 60 carriers are very strong and can handle the load of harcore use. Lockrights come with a 2 year warranty and Richmond is very good about getting these warrantied. Pins can break and the springs do wear out but they are easily replaceable and cheap to do so. For the price lockrights are are a great product they offer full cheap traction but will also unlock to aid in steering. They are also made in the USA. Disadvatages:
The lockright relies on the strength of the carrier a weak carrier will literally rip in half, if your already overloading your current set-up with big tires and high horsepower, the carriers can fail. Ford 8.8 cariers and ten bolt cariers are good examples where we have seen this happen. Lockrights have poor street manners not terrible and each person has there own limits of acceptability, we are biulding trucks to do awesome things offroad so sacrifing ride quality on the road is a fact of life. We do not recomend Lockrights in any trucks that are used for towing. Reason: a lockright unloads when of the gas and then relocks when you get back on the gas this tranfer translates to a slight to heavy pull to one side. The magnitude of this pull is really determined by suspension and wheel base. With a very loose suspension and short wheelbase this pull is very noticeable. And frankly sometimes dangerous if one is not accustomed to driving with one. With a tight supension and long wheelbase it may be unnoticable. As far as installation goes. Some vehicles require the ring gear ot be removed from the carrier in order to drop the crosshaft out. On vehicles with side adjusters 14 bolt, chrysler rearends, and toyota 3rds. The backlash will need to be reset to the factory specifications. In order to do so a dial indictor is required. For toyotas the ring gear needs to be reomoved to install the lockright and the backlash will need to be reset. In this case it is trully easier to put a full carrier locker in it. Detroit:
Advantages:
Detroit lockers are tried and true, and they are extremely strong. They offer you full traction and come with a 1 year manufacturer warranty. They also unlock when turning allowing you turning abiltiy on road and offroad. These lockers have biult a great reputation b/c they are so tough. This is a true upgrade for a weak case. If your carrier is the weak link in your axle after adding a detroit it won't be. Disadvantages:
Much like a lockright detroits have the same poor street manners, depending on application they can be very noisy when they unload, usually in a parking lot or when doing tight turning maneuvers. They will load and unload on the street, when you are on and off the gas. They are however usually less noticable then lockrights and suspension and wheel base play a large roll in the severity of the effect. The biggest downsize to the detroit is if you break a shaft 90% of the time the clutch plate on the side of the broken shaft usually breaks from the recoil. This leaves you with a broken shaft and a broken locker. The locker can be repaired but these pieces are very expensive in relation to the cost of the locker, they are not proportional. A clutch plate usually is in the $160-$200 range. Another note is detroits cutomer service is sub par. Their warranties are usually very slow and parts can be very hard to come by, if you need a part you will need a very motivated vendor to get it for you. If you break a case on a detroit, not real likely, but possible, just the case portion will cost you close to what a new locker will cost. Again detroits have a great reputation for being strong b/c they are but if your treading on weak axle shafts think about upgrading your shafts with the locker or you might be in very bad position ( broken locker+ broken shaft). These lockers are not highly recomended for tow rigs or vehicles driving in snow/ice road conditions. Aburn ECTED:
Just a blurb here since we do not have a whole lot of expierence with these. Here is what we know: They are a great idea, and when I say great I mean great. Having a full time limited slip that transforms to full locker with a flick of a switch is an awesome idea. Auburn makes a great limited slip and makes some fantastic prodcuts, their warranty programs are top notch and they typically have great customer service. The problems we have heard is when the locker portion of the differential is engaged it slides the side gear over towards center this takes away form the spline engagement of the axle shaft to side gear and stripped shafts is the result (This may be hersay). They are priced right but there true worthiness is still in question with us. Don't count auburn out though we think they will correct this problem and manufaturer a better differential. They are agian a great company that manufacturers awesome prodcuts right here in the USA. OX Locker:
Advantages:
They are one of the toughest lockers ever biult and are a 100% forged differential. The mechanical linkage with the cable is simple and effective. You can engage and disengage when you need to0, making them useful on road and offrad. Go to the track or offroad, pull cable for full traction. Drive home push it in for an open diff. A properly routed cable that is maintained(oiled much like a motorcycle throttle cable) can give you many years or quality service. Disadvatages:
The cable can be problematic and they do require maintence and or replacement. A properly routed cable is essential it needs a fairly striaght shot, and can absouletly not be routed near any heat source. The cable sheath will act like heat shrink if routed to close to the exhuast and the cable will seaze in the sheath. There expense is a disadvantage but this comes form it bieng a very well biult differential. ARB:
Advantages: We are not going to hide the fact that we think this is the best locker on the market of course it is also one of the most expensive. It is the fastest locking and unlocking differential on the market. If you are offroad and need to make a tight turn flick it off make your turn and flick it back on. They are extemely strong as strong as any differential on the market if not the strongest. We have never seen one break. If your case is the weak link in your axle not anymore. If you have a newer vehicle that you drive everyday, installing the ARB will not impair its road qualities at all, just leave it off. In snow/ice condtions on the road an open diff is the safest way to travel, the ARB allows you to have that open diff. If you need to pull someone out of the ditch lock it in. If anything does go wrong with your locker or the accesories, replacement parts are easy to get and relatively cheap. ARB's customer service and warranty programs are awesome (2 year warranty). If you buy a ARB compressor with the locker, btwn the two purchases you have everything you need to actuate the locker and they are very easy to install the compressor and wire it. Just 3 wires are required. The electrical harness is prebiult for you to run the compressor switch and two locker switches so you can easily add another locker later if you so choose. ARB's come with vehicle specific instruction that are easy to read and very explicit. If a quality differential biulder can read and follow directions with attention to detail then installing the locker is relatively easy. If money is not a factor ARB is the only option for strength, relaibilty and safety. There is no downsize to installing an ARB if installed properly. Disadvantages:
The ARB needs to be installed by a quality profesional with expierence installing diffs, a do it yourselfer can install and we will answer tech questions but realize this is not a slap it in and go locker. If an ARB is installed properly it will outlast your truck problem free. The airlines need to be routed as to not get caught by rocks, supension travel, ect. The air lines also need to be protected from chafing and direct heat sources. There expense is also a downside, we know about budgets, but usually doing it right the first time saves money in the long run.
Product Install Instructions
05+ Tacoma, 4Runner, and FJ Cruiser Differential Removal Instructions
We now have the 05+ 8'' Clamshell diffs available as cores to build and send out. Do to this we have had some requests for a write up on removing the front diff. Seems everyone is comfortable pulling the rear diff. Front is just as easy we like it more since we don't have to bleed brakes. Here is a writeup for all interested.
Tool List:
12mm
14mm
19mm
21mm
22mm
36mm
10mm allen
12mm allen
E13 interior torque
Tie Rod separator
Dead Blow
Pry bar
Misc basic tools
Remove Front wheels:
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b323/JonMetty/toy%20diff%20removal/ToyCS8DiffRem001.jpg[/IMG] Remove Skid Pans:
Drain Diff fluid 10mm Allen:
Separate Tie rod ends, a cheap tierod separator can be purchased or rented from an auto parts store or alternately one can use a hammer and give a good smack to the spindle tierod body. Tie rod separator is easy and cheap, do not use a fork tool you will ruin the boot.
Tie Rod Separator:
Hammer method:
Remove Spindle cab with a small srewdriver or chisel, work around the edge slowly and don't beat it to death they damage easily, once separated use a prior bar to pop it off: Remove Cotter pin and lock retainer: Remove axle nut 36mm w/ impact gun my battery powered electric took these off, if they are stuck or don't have power tools have an assistant hold the brakes while you put a breaker bar on it, if no assistant is available the nut can be broken loose by setting the tires on the ground in park and using a breaker bar, this should be done early on obviously. Remove Sway bar link nut and pull link away from spindle this free up more travel: Remove lower ball joint Bolts: There are only 2 early trucks had 4 bolts The spindle is now ready to be pulled away from the axle shaft giving you room to swing it out away from the CV, this allows for CV removal. The splines of the CV can be fairly seized in the internal hub splines. Screwing the axle nut back on shaft and popping the end of it, with a dead bow will free it up. Getting the spindle away from the shaft is much easier with an assistant but possible by yourself, pull rotor spindle assembly away while pulling CV shaft back towards diff. Position spindle to the rear and secure or have an assistant hold out of the way while shaft is being removed. Remove CV shafts- use a pry bar to pop shaft out of tube and diff. Internal c-clip is holding shaft in. A big brass drift can also be placed where prior bar is placed and can be knocked out with a hammer. I actually used the drift method as there is a metal dust seal on inner side of shaft that slightly interferes with pry method. Unplug ADD motor harness careful not to break the plastic securing clips after all this is a 05+ truck lets keep it NEW! I like to go ahead and loosen the ADD tube retaining bolts, these are fairly tight and with the diff installed its a reasonable holding fixture. The tube can be fully removed now as well. But the tube serves as a useful place to grab when removing diff, and retains a bit of diff fluid that will surely drain all over you when you remove. I like to just break the bolts loose and leave it attached until its on the bench. There is a 12mm bolt on top of the diff that holds the diff breather and vacuum line retainer bracket, go ahead and back this bolt out and disconnect the two lines. Hard to see in a picture so here they are after diff is removed. Now time to remove the mounting bolts and drop the diff, remove the allen nut 17mm, and the other 2 bolts as pictured. Remove allen nut completely remove one bolt completely, and back out last bolt almost all the way out, so diff is still hanging, diff will be rotated forward/down. Position self to support and remove diff, rotate diff back up and remove last bolt while supporting diff, allow diff to rotate down and raise up until rear allen mount stud is free and lower. The 05+ diffs have more room than the early truck to get the diff out so that is a plus. Diff can be removed by one person and only ways about 35-40lbs.
Tool List:
12mm
14mm
19mm
21mm
22mm
36mm
10mm allen
12mm allen
E13 interior torque
Tie Rod separator
Dead Blow
Pry bar
Misc basic tools
Remove Front wheels:
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b323/JonMetty/toy%20diff%20removal/ToyCS8DiffRem001.jpg[/IMG] Remove Skid Pans:
Drain Diff fluid 10mm Allen:
Separate Tie rod ends, a cheap tierod separator can be purchased or rented from an auto parts store or alternately one can use a hammer and give a good smack to the spindle tierod body. Tie rod separator is easy and cheap, do not use a fork tool you will ruin the boot.
Tie Rod Separator:
Hammer method:
Remove Spindle cab with a small srewdriver or chisel, work around the edge slowly and don't beat it to death they damage easily, once separated use a prior bar to pop it off: Remove Cotter pin and lock retainer: Remove axle nut 36mm w/ impact gun my battery powered electric took these off, if they are stuck or don't have power tools have an assistant hold the brakes while you put a breaker bar on it, if no assistant is available the nut can be broken loose by setting the tires on the ground in park and using a breaker bar, this should be done early on obviously. Remove Sway bar link nut and pull link away from spindle this free up more travel: Remove lower ball joint Bolts: There are only 2 early trucks had 4 bolts The spindle is now ready to be pulled away from the axle shaft giving you room to swing it out away from the CV, this allows for CV removal. The splines of the CV can be fairly seized in the internal hub splines. Screwing the axle nut back on shaft and popping the end of it, with a dead bow will free it up. Getting the spindle away from the shaft is much easier with an assistant but possible by yourself, pull rotor spindle assembly away while pulling CV shaft back towards diff. Position spindle to the rear and secure or have an assistant hold out of the way while shaft is being removed. Remove CV shafts- use a pry bar to pop shaft out of tube and diff. Internal c-clip is holding shaft in. A big brass drift can also be placed where prior bar is placed and can be knocked out with a hammer. I actually used the drift method as there is a metal dust seal on inner side of shaft that slightly interferes with pry method. Unplug ADD motor harness careful not to break the plastic securing clips after all this is a 05+ truck lets keep it NEW! I like to go ahead and loosen the ADD tube retaining bolts, these are fairly tight and with the diff installed its a reasonable holding fixture. The tube can be fully removed now as well. But the tube serves as a useful place to grab when removing diff, and retains a bit of diff fluid that will surely drain all over you when you remove. I like to just break the bolts loose and leave it attached until its on the bench. There is a 12mm bolt on top of the diff that holds the diff breather and vacuum line retainer bracket, go ahead and back this bolt out and disconnect the two lines. Hard to see in a picture so here they are after diff is removed. Now time to remove the mounting bolts and drop the diff, remove the allen nut 17mm, and the other 2 bolts as pictured. Remove allen nut completely remove one bolt completely, and back out last bolt almost all the way out, so diff is still hanging, diff will be rotated forward/down. Position self to support and remove diff, rotate diff back up and remove last bolt while supporting diff, allow diff to rotate down and raise up until rear allen mount stud is free and lower. The 05+ diffs have more room than the early truck to get the diff out so that is a plus. Diff can be removed by one person and only ways about 35-40lbs.
